Cafe Spaghetti in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

We just had a marvelous evening at Cafe Spaghetti in Carroll Gardens. This two year old Italian (obviously) restaurant is a tribute to the small, family-run neighborhood red sauce joints of our collective memories (which in truth were probably never this good).

The warren of little rooms, decorated with all manner of Italian pottery and vintage photos and maps, feels like it's been there for decades. However, we reserved a table in the roomy back patio (above). To our delight on a warm summer evening, while it felt like we were outside, the patio was completely enclosed, air conditioned, and is used all year.

Our favorite bites: the can't miss, creamy-textured Cacio e Pepe Rice Balls; Mezze Rigatoni with lots of sweet crab, subtly spicy garlic crema, and a little jalepeno; and the generous portion of perfectly fried Shrimp Franchese, served with lemony broccoli. And while it's a bit of cliche to say it, don't skip the Tiramisu.

We'd be remiss if we left out the friendly welcome at the front entrance and the attentive service throughout. Oh, and one more thing. This ain't Carbone. We split three appetizers, one pasta, one main, and a dessert (no drinks or wine). The tab came to $120. We'll be back on the F train to Carroll Gardens soon.

Cafe Spaghetti, 126 Union St., Brooklyn. Click here for their website.